EV Recone Instructions
Remove speaker parts:
Use a utility knife and cut the cone and spider (slicing through the pigtails- also known as lead
wire or braided wire) near the speaker frame. Remove recone kit assembly. Immediately cover
voice coil gap with masking tape. Use utility knife to clean remaining spider from frame.
Remove gaskets. They can be reused if new matching gaskets are not available. Clean remaining
glue, surround, gasket debris from frame. De-solder pigtail leads and clean terminal.
Install Voice-Coil Assembly:
Clean all debris from inside speaker frame and magnet. Use compressed air (if available) to blow
debris from speaker and eventually from voice coil gap. Add another layer of masking tape over
the first to trap any remaining debris. Remove both layers of masking tape from voice coil gap at
one time. Inspect the voice-coil gap. Clean gap thoroughly by folding masking tape over shim so
sticky side is exposed on both sides. Insert into gap and circle. Repeat with new tape continually
until tape comes up clean. If the original vc coil was burnt, check for windings in gap.
Fit all parts together in frame to check fit before using any adhesives!
Install the voice coil into gap using EV fixture with EV shim attached or with different size shims (if you did not elect to purchase the EV fixture) until you get a tight fit where the coil
fits securely. You must be able to insert a thin shim into the gap around the outside of the
windings. Inspect to see that vc is set evenly. You should be able to see an even amount of the windings from all sides. If you have the EV fixture, then the height of coil is determined by the fixture itself. If not, then the height of the coil is determined by the travel of the cone and length of former and windings. Inspect original parts for a guideline. A general rule of thumb is to set the coil so you can see top two windings of the vc windings above the top plate of the magnet. (This is not true for DL models which have quite a bit more of the windings visible above the magnet plate.) An important thing to check is that the spider should always sit above the vent holes around the vc former- never in the middle of the holes. Remember that if
you set it too low, the coil will “bottom out”. If you set it too high, the coil will cause over
excursion and can get damaged or bent. Remember to install so voice coil leads align with
terminal on frame. Gently place the leads over top of shim so they will not be in the way of
spider and cone.
Fit spider and then cone over voice coil and lower to frame to test fit. Turn spider gently to insure it is sitting evenly and level. Remove and apply a neat bead of contact glue on frame where spider will attach. Attach spider (gently turn to insure proper setting) and press ends to frame in full circle to insure glue attaches to outside of the spider fully. Fit cone over voice coil and gently turn to sit evenly on frame. You might find that the cone sits slightly too high. If so, trim a small amount from the throat of the cone to fit better. See if cone throat opening reaches spider. If the cone does not reach the spider, epoxy voice coil to spider and then install cone as detailed next. If cone reaches mouth of spider at voice coil, then remove cone, add glue to the outside frame and install cone. Line up with voice coil leads and terminal. Smooth cone edge into glue. Install gaskets. Use a small piece of masking tape to hold in place. Use epoxy to attach cone to coil making sure that epoxy reaches spider completely. You might need to slightly lift and lower cone so epoxy forms bead around ID of spider. Smooth epoxy where it meets vc with solder poker or other thin tool.
Turn speaker upside down (careful to not let gaskets move) so epoxy cannot drip into the vc gap
and leave 24 hours. If the foam or rubber edge is taller than the gaskets, you must use a spacer so
the surround is not crushed when the speaker is turned upside down. Gently lift voice coil leads
and remove shims. Make holes in cone for pigtails if no eyelet exists. Install pigtails through cone if not already in place. Wrap vc leads around pigtails and solder. Solder pigtails to terminal on frame leaving “arches” that allow cone to have full range of excursion (be careful not to make
arch too long or too short). Make sure leads face outward from one another so they cannot short
out. Clip excess lead wire from outside of terminal.
Hold speaker facing down (so debris cannot fall into vc gap) and test speaker. If noisy, try to
clean inside the voice coil gap by gently inserting masking tape inside he vc former with sticky
side out. Circle and remove any excess debris. Glue voice coil lead to cone eyelet. Put dustcap in place and use a bead of glue to attach to cone.. Apply edge dampening agent, dope or latex, if needed.